Ayubowan!
I don’t know how others are, but when I come back from a beautiful place, I always say to myself, “Pff … clearly this is one of my favorite countries.” The truth is that there is no top. However, if I class Sri Lanka into one, it wins absolutely first place, for the best people I have ever met. Below is my 2-week itinerary, with costs and details updated to 2022. Hope it helps! 😋
itinerary
details pre-trip:
Tickets:
Fly Dubai – 540€ / 2700 lei – Skyscanner App.
Visa:
https://eta.gov.lk– 35$ online application. The visa is valid for 30 days after entering the country and you will have it by e-mail in a few minutes.
Covid Test & Airport health declaration:
The covid test done 72 hours before is mandatory to enter Sri Lanka (* February 2022). I did the PCR test for 250 lei for 2 people, at the Provita Cente, here is the link: https://www.centrul-provita.ro/
Another document that must be completed after you have the result of the PCR test is the Health Declaration, on the website: https://airport.lk/health_declaration/index. At the end, a QR code is generated, which must be shown, both at the departure airport and in Colombo.
Covid insurance:
In case of covid, in order to be treated in their hospitals it is mandatory to have a local insurance that costs 12$: https://portal.pionline.lk/covidinsurance/
Travel insurance:
I chose Allianz Tiriac. Good to have it, for luggage, repatriation and more. ~ 50 lei for 17 days
Others:
Before you go to a tropical country, you must be aware about the risks. Some time ago, I made myself a cocktail vaccine, which protects you from a lot of stuff. As vaccines are a sensitive topic, it is obviously everyone’s choice. A good recommendation from a doctor are sprays with DEET> 30%. https://www.himalaya.ro/calatorie/spray-anti-insecte-deet-50-200ml.html
trip and costs:
I would like to make an introduction about Sri Lanka and highlight some of the most beautiful things that I have seen and lived there. It’s just that in the meantime something else came in my mind. A short school story from … ehee, how time flies.
I want the whole internet to hear, from one end to the other, that I HAVE HAD THE BEST GEOGRAPHY TEACHER IN THE WORLD. In the 7th and 8th grade, in the last part of the class, we used to play a kind of game. Someone came out to the blackboard, wrote the first and last letter of a word, and the class had to guess.
My turn came, I chose a word, which my colleagues discovered after a few minutes. I went back to the bank and in my head I was “Will I ever get there?” I had written CEYLON.
Day 1: Negombo
Bandaranaike International Airport (CMB) is located near the city of Negombo, which is the main reason why we decided to have our first accommodation here.
Accommodation: Leighton Resort (breakfast included, free pickup from the airport – 30$ per night)
What to do before leaving the airport?
1. Buy a SIM card – at Mobitel for 17GB, minutes and international credit costs $ 11. Obviously there are cheaper options, around $ 8 with less GB. But the card went perfectly, I had signal everywhere. Overall, I recommend.
2. Withdraw money from an ATM – BOC (Bank of Ceylon). They have no commission and it is the bank that I used most of the vacation.
If you do not have the transport provided by the accommodation, you can take a taxi from the airport and officially you can start your art of negotiation :)). Dont accept the first price, because it is usually a higher one, obviously.
In Negombo you don’t have much to do. I had in mind few temples to visit, which I successfully abandoned, being quite far away. So, we rested after the flight, we saw the beach and a few streets.
Day 2: Dambulla, Sigiriya
Accommodation: Sevonrich Holiday Resort (breakfast and dinner included – 65$ 2 nights)
Transport: Negombo – Dambula 10k rupees / 50$ for a van 4 pers+)
The only transport we “arranged” from home is Negombo – Dambulla. We discussed on booking about the price and they sent a car to Negombo for us. When we arrived at Dambulla, we stayed at the table, together and made the plan for the next 2 days.
“Mr. Sevonrich” (as we called him) told us in that afternoon: “Try to take advantage of any experience, take local buses, see how it is the train, go with the tuktuk and take the opportunity to talk to the drivers you will meet”. So we did exactly that.
sigiriya lion rock
I start with some “technical” details and then we talk about the story of this place.
- tuktuk driver for half a day – 2500 rupees / $ 12
- entrance ticket – 6000 rupees / $ 30 only cash
Come here, either very early in the morning or in the evening for sunset. Because it is very hot during the day and once you start climbing the rock, there is no shade at all. The climb takes 1.5 hours on average, with pictures and stuff. We chose to go in the second part of the day and catch the sunset there.
What's the history of Sigiriya?
The story begins like this: in the 400’s, the king of that time had 2 children. The little one longed for the throne, so he plotted with the army commander against his father and brother. When he became king, he decided to move the royal seat from Anaradhapura to Sigiriya.
The name “Lion Rock” comes from the lion built at the entrance, warning in this way all his enemies. On the right side of the rock are frescoes, over 1500 years old. There are several theories about the women painted there, and one of them says that they represent all the king’s wives.
Day 3: Pidurangala, Polonnaruwa
Transport: tuk-tuk driver for a full day – 6000 rupees / $ 30
what you need to know before going to Pidurangala?
As all normal people do on vacation (no!), we woke up at 4 AM, to catch the sunrise over the jungle. From a few articles, I had found that it would be advisable to have a more serious head light and that climbing is not the easiest. But who took that into account?
So, you do need a better light than the flashlight phone. A super comfortable outfit, because at the end of the hike it is a very difficult part (aka for girls leggings). And some stiffer shoes, to help you, not to slip.
Once you reach the top, you feel that you have conquered Everest!! Even if I didn’t catch a spectacular sunrise, because it was cloudy, to hear how the jungle wake up, it is a real feeling!
Entrance ticket: $ 5 / 1000 rupees; and all the money goes to the temple.
The ancient city of Polonnaruwa
Polonaruwa is also called the royal capital of Sri Lanka. Here you can see ruins since the 1200s. It is the second oldest kingdom and has been declared a World Heritage Site.
The entrance ticket costs $ 25 per person, and if you come with a tuktuk, he will know exactly how to do a perfect tour. Another option is to rent a bike and if you want this option, be sure not to miss the most important points:
- The Royal Palace
- The Shiva Devale
- The Audience Hall
- The Sacred Quadrangle
- The Swimming Pool
- The Dagaba Kiri Vihara
- The Pabalu Vehera
- The Buddha statue at Lankatilaka
- Lord Buddha figures at Gal Vihara
- The Rankot Vihara
On the way back to Dambulla, we stopped to visit Cave Temple and Golden Temple. Tickets cost 2,000 rupees each.
Day 4: Ambuluwawa
The discussion was like this:
We: “We’d like to visit Ambuluwawa Tower and then get to Kandy. Do you think you can help us with transportation?”
Mister Sevonrich: “Mhh, so Ambuluwawa. Do you know that I’ve never been there? And besides, I’m also afraid of heights.”
We: “Perfect, come with us! And you can beat that fear. “
Mr. Sevonrich: “Okay guys, I’m taking a day off tomorrow and we’re going with my car.”
We fit 4 people in a Toyota Aqua, with 2 big luggages and 2 smaller ones. This transportation cost us 10k rupees / $ 50.
We had a few stops along the way:
- Nalanda Gedige – an ancient temple, built entirely of stone. A mix of Buddhist and Hindu style.
- Spice Garden – a tour of all the plants with a guide. You can taste cinnamon directly from the bark or see the effect of the sap of a plant, which it is like a depilatory cream. At the end, you receive a tea and a body massage and everything works based on tips. From what I understood, 2000 rupees would be enough.
Ambuluwawa is Sri Lanka’s first multi-religious sanctuary. It is located on a very high hill and the road to it is full of serpentines.
After you get the entrance ticket (it costs around ~ $3), you can rent a tuktuk or with your car. The road is narrow and very steep. We managed to get a big part of it, but then we got out of the car and walked to the tower.
Day 5: Kandy
Accommodation: Kandy City Hotel by Earl’s (breakfast included – 50$ 2 nights)
What to visit in Kandy?
- Kandy Market
- Red Mosque
- Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic – one of the most important temples in the country. In the past, it played a very important role, so that the owner of the relic had the right to govern the country. The ticket costs 2000 rupees / $ 10 and you must have a decent outfit.
- Royal Botanical Gardens – 2000 rupees / $ 10 per ticket. And it’s worth all the money !! I admit that I became skeptical, before going to an ocenarium, a botanical garden … I don’t even mention the zoo, because there is a no-no. However, the experience here was a super successful one. The botanical garden is very large, diverse, and if you do not have much time, you can rent a buggy car for 6 people for 2000 lkr / 1h.
From the city center we arrived to the botanical garden by tuk-tuk (for 400 rupees) and on the way back, we decided to take a 690 bus (where the ticket costs 30 rupees).
Day 6: Train Kandy - Ella
After asking him a thousand times … he said he could give us a 1st class ticket with a seat, only for Nuwara Eliya – Ella with 1000 rupees. And I just bought it as a backup. Any ticket without a seat is bought on the day of the trip, from the train station, 30 minutes – 1 hour before. It costs 310 rupees for the 2nd class.
I already had 2 tickets each. The train is coming, we are looking for the 2nd class wagons. FULL! And we needed enough space for the luggage too. Somehow I saw free stairs in the 3rd class and I said: Let’s go up there, because otherwise we will remain here!
Day 7: Ella
Accommodation: Richard Homestay (breakfast included – 33$ 2 nights)
Nine Arches Bridge & Little Adam's Peak
We chose to explore Ella walking, right next to our accommodation, directly from the railway. You can go from the train station to Nine Arches Bridge in about ~ 45 min.
The bridge with the new arcade is famous for being built only of stone and cement. And it really is beautiful!
After crossing the bridge, on the right side, you can climb a few stairs and start the route to Little Adam’s Peak. Follow a sign on the left with “98 Acres Resort & Spa”. The route to the top is relatively easy, and if you want some great sensations, try the zipline for $ 80.
Day 8: Diyaluma Falls
Accommodation: 12000 rupees/ 60 $ van with the following itinerary:
1) Tea Factory 2) Diyaluma Falls 3) Udawalawe
You are in the paradise of tea and you have to go visit a tea factory. To see exactly how all the machines work, go in the morning and not on Saturday or Sunday.
The tea that people in Sri Lanka consume every day is the black one. But all types of tea, green or white are made from the same plant. The black tea has a complicated process, in which the leaf is sectioned into 4 pieces and the key element is the oxidation.
Dont buy tea from the factory, because it is pretty expensive and go to Ella at the “CEYLON TEA & SPICES” store.
I then went to the place that would be the highlight of the day 🤩. The one and only Upper Diyaluma Falls. It is the 2nd largest waterfall in Sri Lanka and I felt it was worth the effort. We took a local person, who guided us through the jungle, because obviously there is no marking sign.
I don’t know what we would have done without him; he taught us which plants not to touch because they are dangerous, he helped us with the route because it was very slippery and we bathed in a lot of places in the waterfall. The most impressive were the natural infinity pools. It’s well worth it! I let his details here and you can contact his on whatsapp, if you are in the area: Nalin (0094 0711135017) – 2000 rupees as a guide ~ 3h.
Day 9: Udawalawe National Park
Accommodation: Mansala Safari (breakfast included – $ 17 1 night)
Jeep: 6000 rupees (4 pers)
Tickets: 15200 rupees (4 pers)
what you need to know before going to Udawalawe?
The departure to the national park is at 5:45, so I highly recommand to have a windy jacket with you. There is a limit of 50 jeeps, that can enter the park, so dont be late.
The “standard” tour lasts 4 hours and in the first part, when it is a bit cooler, you’ll see elephants. Many elephants. In Asia in general, elephants are not dangerous, only 5% of them have prominent teeth. Few, compared to Africa, where the percentage is over 70%.
However, if the elephants are mating, they can become dangerous. As I could not leave without a “special event”, an elephant came to our jeep, the driver started moving in the opposite part and my bps was at its maximum. We were moving away, he was coming towards us and we realized that things were getting serious. Everything is fine when it ends well, but such events are not excluded from the scheduler.
There are many birds that you can see, with so many colors. My all time favorite is the Tucano bird. More than gorgeous. From now on, every time I have a coffee from Tucano, in Bucharest, my mind will surely fly in Udawalawe.
Peacocks, bison, deer, crocodiles and the list is longer..
Day 10: Dickwella and Hiriketiya
Transportation: 8000 rupees; van from Udawalawe to Mirissa
And officially we started the beach season!! We stayed 3 nights in Mirissa, with the idea that we would visit the other beaches by bus. More precisely, the disco bus because it is cheap, you have a sound background and full lights :)).
About the beaches in Sri Lanka
The Indian Ocean has big and dangerous waves, so you have to be careful. And to avoid accidents, some water splashes are suuuper indicated.
From Mirissa to Dickwella, I did about 1 hour by bus 32 (200 lkr). Dickwella is a large beach with no shops or bars nearby. We stayed here for a few hours, enjoyed the peace around us, then took a tuk-tuk and went to the 2nd beach of the day: Hiriketiya.
Hiriketiya is somehow a completely opposite beach. Located in a small bay, with almost non-existent waves, it is smaller and has more tourists. But I really liked it. However, I was left with the regret that I didn’t get to visit Tangalle and Goyambokka beach.
Day 11: Mirissa
I have a mix of feelings with Mirissa. I like it and I don’t like it. The beach is big, with fine sand, but the streets seems too chaotic. If I had to rethink the itinerary a bit, I would definitely not stay here for 3 more nights, but probably only one.
Clearly, it is the most touristy beach in Sri Lanka. Maybe a little too much for my taste, but what is definitely worth it is the view from Parrot Rock and Coconut Tree Hill. I knew they were the most hunted places by everyone, so I went all morning. And I did well! There was completely empty and you could really enjoy this beautiful place. Just me, myself and I 🙃.
Day 12: Unawatuna
Accommodation: Villa Thawthisa (breakfast included – $ 165 2 nights)
Transportation: 5000 rupees; van from Mirissa to Unawatuna
Unawatuna was like a dessert of our vacation and the best we left for the very end .. The resort is beautiful, neat, and the accommodation was great between 2 beaches. If you want a smaller beach, usually for locals, go to Jungle Beach or for a larger beach with restaurants and all: Unawatuna Beach.
Day 13: Dalawella
Turtle Beach and Dalawella Beach are 10 minutes away from Unawatuna and a tuk-tuk should not take more than 400 rupees.
As the name suggests, if you go in the morning, you can enjoy snorkeling with turtles. Why only in the morning? Because the area is rocky, and somewhere after 12 o’clock, the water level rises and the currents become very strong. With a highlight on “very strong” (because I was about to drown) .. but the adventures are part of the itinerary, right?
Just after Frog Rock, Dalawella Beach begins. Here is the famous swing suspended from the palm tree, which turns you into a child in a few seconds. Initially, I read on the internet that in order to reach the swing, you have to climb on the palm tree and that it is difficult. Apparently it’s not like that anymore! It’s quite easy and for this lil child moment, you have to pay 500 rupees to the Dream Cabana guesthouse.
Day 14: Colombo
Accommodation: The Steuart by Citrus ($ 45 – one night)
Transportation: 9000 rupees Unawatuna – Colombo
What to visit in Colombo?
We were accommodated in zone 1 of the city and that’s a safe area with many tourists. One of the uninspired choices was to go to Pettah Market in the evening and there I think is the only place in Sri Lanka where I did not feel safe. Even more, we were watched for several minutes, obviously for money. There is a predominantly Muslim area and that may explain a few things. But, culturally speaking, it is worth visiting, as well as Floating Market, but all of this, preferably on day time 
.
With the same ticket, for 400 rupees, you can visit the 2 temples: Seema Malakaya and Gangaramaya Temple. What seemed strange to me was that in the middle of a construction, across the road from the temples, about 10 steps from the main street, I saw 2 tied elephants, which I later found out belonged to the temples.
Quite often, I saw teenagers playing cricket, a very popular sport in Sri Lanka and Asia in general. A good opportunity to learn, what is it about this sport ..
What I find unmissable here in Colombo is catching the sunset on Galle Face Beach. „How to watch a sunset and not to dream?” it is perfectly valid. I was rethinking about all these days in Sri Lanka, one by one. I am happy that I lived this experience, that I met good people, at all our accommodations where we stayed, that they helped us and fed us, in the most hospitality way.
Restaurants / Traditional food
Below is a list of cheap and good restaurants:
Negombo: Ocean 14, Jude Restaurant
Dambulla: Saruketha Restaurant
Kandy: Kadyan Muslim Hotel
Ella: Matey Hut Ella
Hiriketiya: Hiriketiya Seafood Restaurant
Mirissa: W&D Beach Restaurant
Unawatuna: Sea Waves Restaurant, Pink Elephant
Colombo: Ceylon Curry Club
Traditional dishes:
1. Dhal Curry, Chicken curry, basically everything with curry
2. Kottu (veggie, egg, cheese or meat kottu)
3. Fried Paratha
4. Pol Sambol
5. Egg Hoppers (breakfast) and Fish and Veggie Roti
Tips & Tricks
- Take an insect spray from home with DEET> 30%.
- Withdraw money from Bank of Ceylon (0% commission) and make sure you always have cash with you.
- Negotiate, negotiate, negotiate. Often the first price is higher, so whether you like it or not, you have to negotiate the prices.
- For transport, install the PickMe application (for cities) and talk at your accommodation for longer trips. They will definitely help you!
- Live the complete experience and go by tuk-tuk, train and local buses.
Stutiyi, Cristiana ✈️🇱🇰
2 thoughts on “Sri Lanka through my eyes – 2 weeks itinerary”
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